Benefits of a Reverse Mortgage

What is a reverse mortgage?
A reverse mortgage is a special type of home loan that lets a homeowners 62 years or older to convert the equity in his or her home into cash. The equity built up over years of home mortgage payments can be paid to the homeowner in a number of ways: in a lump sum, in a stream of payments, or as a supplement to Social Security or other retirement funds. But unlike a traditional home equity loan or second mortgage, with a reverse mortgage repayment is not required until the borrowers no longer use the home as their principal residence.

Use of Funds

The funds from a reverse mortgage can be used for anything. Common uses include supplementing retirement income to cover daily living expenses; repairing or modifying your home (i.e., widening halls or installing a ramp); covering health care expenses; paying off existing debts; taking a vacation; paying property taxes; and preventing foreclosure. There are no income or medical requirements to qualify. You may be eligible for a reverse mortgage even if you still owe money on an existing mortgage.

Payment Options

You can choose to receive the money from a reverse mortgage all at once as a lump sum, fixed monthly payments (for up to life), as a line of credit, or a combination of these. The most popular option – chosen by more than 60 percent of borrowers – is the line of credit, which allows you to draw on the loan proceeds at any time.

What are some of the benefits of a reverse mortgage?

• Strengthen your personal and financial independence.
• Help pay for health care or other needs.
• You can never lose your home in foreclosure as long as you maintain the property tax and insurance payments.
• The loan is only paid off when the house is sold by you or your heirs, or all borrowers move out of the house.
• Keep your Medicare or Social Security benefits.
• Use it as a credit line and draw upon it as needed.
• Get all your cash right away.
• Get the best of both—get cash now and have a balance in reserve to use as a credit line.
• No Income Requirements: The homeowner does not need to be working and is not qualified based on income.

As the homeowner receives monthly cash income, the loan balance increases. In the following twelve-month example, the homeowner begins with a debt-free home. As money is received by the homeowner, the mortgage grows. By the end of month twelve, the homeowner owes the bank $6,000 plus $232.44 interest. All Reverse Mortgage loans have a variable rate.

Could you use extra cash to consolidate debts or to supplement your monthly income?

Do you have equity in your home?

Would you like to not have to make mortgage payments in the future?

If the answer is yes, then our reverse mortgage loan programs may be for you! We are a reverse mortgage lender with a variety of reverse mortgage loan products in New York, New Jersey and Florida.

Current State of the Mortgage Market - Positives and Negatives

Over the past few years, economists and housing advocates have predicted a recovery in “x” or “y” year, only to push those estimates back by a year or two after each year passed.

In fact, it wasn’t too long ago that experts were predicting an end to the madness in 2009, 2010, 2011, and so on.

Heck, back in 2007, Fannie Mae’s president saw a possible housing recovery in late 2009.

We’re now rapidly approaching the end of 2011, and as we do, things seem to be getting worse rather than better.

This has been great news for mortgage rates, as the shaky news has pushed interest rates to their lowest levels on record (will they go lower?).

Low Rates Aren’t Helping

Unfortunately, it’s not doing much to salvage housing, primarily because no one has any confidence in housing.

This is evidenced by the lackluster purchase-money mortgage application volume of late.

During the latest week, the Mortgage Bankers Association noted that applications to purchase a home increased seven percent on a seasonally adjusted basis.

But they were off 7.2 percent compared to a year earlier, which makes you wonder where the recovery is.

Even with mortgage rates nearly a half-point lower than they were last year, nobody seems to be biting.

Forget about whether these people are actually approved – they aren’t even applying.

“It Has Never Been a Better Time to Buy”

Meanwhile, real estate agents are proclaiming that, “it has never been a better time to buy than right now.”

And hey, it’s hard to disagree with them, what with mortgage rates really, really low, and home prices well below levels seen a few years ago.

(Mortgage rates vs. home prices)

So what gives? Why isn’t anyone taking advantage of this once in a life opportunity?

For the first-time homebuyers, perhaps it’s a widespread lack of confidence, coupled with the fact that without steady employment, it doesn’t make sense to buy a house.

Then there are all those disillusioned renters who have probably been turned off to housing after watching the carnage over the past five or so years.

For those who already own a home, it’s a home equity issue – they can’t dump the current property and move on, as much as they want/need to.

For investors, it’s more of a buy-and-hold environment, which makes it less attractive. And they’re also buying in cash it seems.

Regardless, there doesn’t seem to be a recovery in sight for the foreseeable future.

If anything, it only appears as if there is more bad news on the horizon. That translates to a wait-and-see mentality, despite all the favorable data working in prospective homebuyers’ favor.

And explains why refinance applications accounted for more than 77 percent of total mortgage volume this past week.

What Moves Mortgage Rates?

The questions are simple enough: What's going on with mortgage rates?

What makes them rise, or fall? Is it the Fed? The economy? Inflation? The banks? The President? Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac? Is it a secret conspiracy? The answer is that rates are moved by a number of related factors, and believe it or not, you -- Joe or Jane Consumer -- are one of those factors.

Mortgage money can come from many sources, including deposits at banks and brokerages, but most comes from investors through what is collectively known as the "capital markets." This is where investors interested in purchasing certain kinds of debt instruments -- bonds, in this case -- come to buy these items.

In order to attract investors, sellers of bonds must compete with one another to get their money. They do this by offering a variety of " instruments" (also called "product") with differing structures of risk and return over given periods of time. These offerings compete with other investments which are reasonably similar in performance, such as US Treasuries, corporate bonds, foreign bonds, and others.

Who are these investors, and why are they so fickle? Mostly, they're people like you, and you want two opposing things: low payments on your debt, especially your mortgage, and high returns on your investments. You (or your investment advisors or fund managers) will only buy so many low- yielding bonds (mortgage or otherwise), because you'll take your money elsewhere if your returns are too low.

Investor demand for a given kind of investment plays a considerable role in moving market yields, because investors have literally hundreds of places to put their money. It's a crowded marketplace, with many sellers of various product competing for those investor dollars. Investor demand for specific product rises and falls with changes in investment strategies; if demand falls enough, a change needs to be made to attract investors again. How to attract them again? Usually, by raising interest rates.

If course, it's not as easy or simple as that. Mortgage market makers serve not one client, but two: investors, who want the highest possible return on their investments, and the homeowner or homebuyer, who wants the lowest possible interest rate. Simultaneously, rates need to be high enough to attract investors but low enough to attract borrowers. It's quite a complex dance; investors, though, make the music.

As interest rates (yields) decline, investment customers can become more or less interested, depending upon the direction of economic growth, inflation, appetite for the given product, and several other factors. Typically, though, the lower those rates get, the fewer investors are interested in putting them on their books.

In the case of financial instruments like bonds, things get a little more complicated. Bonds have an interest rate (yield), a dollar amount (face) and a current price (price).
A very simple explanation -- which leaves out a number of very important factors -- would be as follows:
Let's say, for example, that you want to sell a $1,000 (face) bond with a yield of 6%. And let's say that it's a good deal, so ten investors start offering you more than the $1,000 you want. They bid the price up to $1,010 -- $1,020 -- $1,030. In effect, that increase in price is actually borrowing from the interest which the bond will return. Because some of the interest is gone, the actual return to the investor is no longer 6%, but something less than that. When demand for a given bond is strong, prices rise to the seller, and the return to the investor (yield) declines.

Conversely, when demand for a given bond is weak, the price falls. For example, you might have to sell that $1,000 for only $980; and the return to the investor (yield) rises, since the buyer not only gets all the interest on $1,000, but also got a discount on his purchase price.

The principle to remember is this: as a bond price rises, its yield falls, and vice-versa.

Relationships to Other Investments

Mortgages are priced for sale to attract investors who seek fixed income investments. There are many kinds of bonds available, and mortgage rates (yields) rise and fall with those competing investments to a greater or lesser degree.

But how to price them? Fixed mortgage rates, like other bonds, track US Treasury bonds quite well. Since Treasury obligations are backed by the "full faith and credit" of the United States, they are the benchmark for many other bonds.

There is no specific "lockstep" relationship between Treasuries of any term and fixed mortgage rates. Given enough data points, a relationship could be established against many different financial instruments. However, as a 30-year fixed rate mortgage rarely lasts longer than about 10 years before being paid off or refinanced, the closest instrument which has similar (though lesser) risks is the ten-year Treasury Constant Maturity. Because of this, the ten-year year Treasury makes an excellent tool to track mortgage rates.

Here's an oversimplification of the relationships of mortgages to Treasuries:

As we mentioned, intermediate term bonds and long-term mortgages (more properly, Mortgage-Backed Securities, or MBS) compete for the same fixed-income investor dollar. Treasury issues are 100% guaranteed to be repaid, but mortgages are not; therefore mortgages carry more risk of default or early repayment, which could potentially disturb the return on the investment. Therefore, mortgage rates must be priced higher to compensate for that risk.

But how much higher are mortgages priced? In the current market, the average "spread" or markup above the 100% secured Treasury is about 170 basis points, or 1.7%. That markup -- the spread relationship -- widens and contracts with a range of market conditions, investor appetites and supply of available product -- as well as the presence of competing investment opportunities, like corporate bonds or domestic (or foreign) equity markets. Professional money managers, and investment and retirement funds constantly strive to obtain high-yielding instruments at a given level of risk. Money shuffles from place to place in search of this -- from bond to bond, and market to market.

As we mentioned, the relationship isn't a fixed one, but one that changes with market conditions. Recently, for example, ten-year Treasuries rose from a low of 4.22% to 5.01% over a three-week period -- about 80 basis points, altogether. At the same time, the average 30-year fixed mortgage rate rose from about 6.59% to 7.21%, a rise of only 62 basis points. Over time, there are any number of examples where Treasury yields have risen faster than mortgage rates, as well as times when mortgage rates rose faster than Treasury yields. Consequently, the spread between the two expands and narrows appreciably, which is why you can't simply take the ten-year yield, add 1.7% to it and know exactly what today's rate is.

Other Factors

Then, there's the "unknown supply stream", aka "volume". Unlike many other investment opportunities, no one really knows how many mortgages will be originated, then made available for sale (as bonds) in a given period of time. Recently, a quick drop in interest rates produced a large buildup of loans to be sold to investors as homeowners rushed to refinance. This made way too much bond supply available in too short a time, and investors simply couldn't absorb it all at once. Too much supply, not enough demand; prices had to go down, and yields had to go up to attract investors.

Delays, Delays

There's also a time-lag for mortgage pricing. Though shorter than in years past, it takes anywhere from several hours to several days for increase or decreases to get from capital markets to wholesalers to retailers to "the street" where loan originators are working with you.

Not all increases or decreases are passed along, either. Depending upon the size of the change, rates may stay the same (but fees, such as points, may change). Sometimes, a minor increase in bond yields in the morning is followed by a minor decrease in the afternoon, while mortgage rates remain the same all day.

Other Risks

There's also the impact of inflation, which affects both Treasury, mortgage and other fixed-income investments. Rising inflation reduces the actual return on a fixed interest rate investment, so with 2% inflation, that 6% mortgage note returns only 4% "real" interest.

If inflation is expected to decline for the foreseeable future, you can bet that mortgage rates have some room to fall. Conversely, an outlook which suggests higher inflation ahead will see mortgage rates rise, sometimes very quickly.

Also, a poor economic climate affects mortgages much more profoundly than Treasuries. After all, the US government isn't likely to lose its job and suddenly stop making payments, but it's a safe bet that a percentage of homeowners will, even in good economic times.

There's much more to the structure or bond, mortgage and capital markets, including government influences and overseas relationships to our capital markets which can also have an effect, but the above should be enough to give you a modest working knowledge of the market. You'll notice that so far, we didn't mention the Fed at all. Fed moves have no direct effect on fixed rate mortgage pricing, but their action or inaction (and expectations thereof) can indeed have indirect effects.

The Fed's Role

Contrary to popular myth, the Fed (more properly, the Federal Reserve) doesn't control mortgage rates. In fact, their most well-known policy tool -- the Federal Funds rate -- is the overnight interest rate which banks charge each other when a bank needs to borrow money to meet end- of-day reserve requirements. Simply, those rules say that a bank must have so much cash on hand when the books close at the end of the day, and those funds can be borrowed from another bank at this interest rate. You should know that the Fed merely "suggests" what that rate should be, which is why it's called a "target" rate; the actual rate is negotiated between the borrower bank and the lender bank.

A good way to keep a handle on the Fed is to remember that the Fed Funds rate is the shortest of short-term rates -- literally, an overnight loan -- and a fixed-rate mortgage is all the way at the other end of the scale, a loan that lasts as long as 30 years.

From Fed Funds moves, there's a complicated discussion of monetary policy about how Fed moves affect certain deposit and loan markets and inflationary expectations. We'll leave that for another article.
The end result is that the Fed raises or lowers interest rates to help address increases or decreases in economic activity. Lower rates can help banks to make certain kinds of loans more cheaply, especially for business and certain kinds of consumer lending, and that can help to generate greater economic growth. Higher rates can cool demand, helping to keep inflationary pressures from forming.

In some ways, expectations of what the Fed might do can be more important than what the Fed actually does, as their actions or inactions can help to confirm or deny what investors believe.

You may also have noticed that sometimes the Fed cuts interest rates -- and fixed mortgage rates actually rise as a result. Why? If the Fed is taking steps to address economic weakness by lowering rates, that likely means that a return to faster growth -- and possible higher inflation, as well -- is coming sooner, rather than later.

So what moves mortgage rates? Supply. Demand. Competition for money. Inflation. The Economy. Expectations. And you, of course.

We hope that this helps you understand a little better how the whole thing works.

Should I refinance?

The most common reason for refinancing is to save money. Saving money through refinancing can be achieved in two ways:

1. By obtaining a lower interest rate that causes one's monthly mortgage payment to be reduced.
2. By reducing the term of the loan, thus saving money over the life of the loan. For example, refinancing from a 30-year loan to a 20-year or 15-year loan might result in higher monthly payments, but the total interest paid durring the life of the loan can be reduced significantly.

People also refinance to convert their adjustable loan to a fixed loan. The main reason for doing this is to obtain the stability and the security of a fixed loan. Fixed loans are very popular when interest rates are low, whereas adjustable loans tend to be more popular when rates are higher. When rates are low, homeowners refinance to lock in low rates. When rates are high, homeowners prefer adjustable loans to obtain lower payments.
A third reason why homeowners refinance is to consolidate debts and replace high-rate loans with a low-rate mortgage. The loans being consolidated may include second mortgages, credit lines, student loans, credit cards, etc. In many cases, debt consolidation results in tax savings, since consumer loans are not tax deductible, while a mortgage loan is usually tax deductible.

The answer to the question, "Should I refinance?" is a complex one, since every situation is different and no two homeowners are in the exact same situation. The conventional wisdom of refinancing only when you can save 2 percent on your rate is problematic. If you are refinancing to lower your monthly payments, the following calculation is more appropriate compared to the 2 percent rule:

1. Calculate the total cost of the refinance--example: $2,000
2. Calculate the monthly savings--example: $100/month
3. Divide the result in 1 by the result in 2--in this case 2000/100 = 20 months. This shows the break-even time period. If you plan to live in the home for longer than this period of time, it likely makes sense to refinance.

Sometimes, you do not have a choice--you are forced to refinance. This happens when you have a loan with a balloon payment and no conversion option. In this case it is best to refinance a few months before the balloon payment is due.

Whatever you're considering, consulting with a seasoned mortgage professional can often save you time and money. At Alpine Mortgage, we specialize in home mortgages and find the right financing that best suits your needs. Contact us at 201-935-7777 to have one of our loan specialists assist you.

What is a Credit Score and Why is it Important?

When applying for credit, lenders will check your credit score to see how good it is. But what exactly is a credit score; how is it calculated; and why is this number so darned important?

A credit score is a number that strongly indicates to lenders and creditors how likely you are to pay back the debt you owe, based on your past borrowing behavior. The higher your score, the more likely you are, in their eyes, that you will pay back the money you borrow.

Your credit score is used to determine whether you can get credit for things like: a credit card, a loan to finance your college tuition, a loan to buy a house or car, or even to start up a new business. Not only that, it is used to determine what kind of loan you qualify for, how much credit you qualify for and what your interest rate will be.

What's a Good Credit Score?

The most widely known type of score is a FICO score. FICO is short for Fair Isaac Corporation and is considered by many to be the most accurate. The three major credit reporting agencies, Equifax, TransUnion and Experian also calculate credit scores based on their own statistical model.

But how do you know what a good score is and what a bad score is? Well, that's sort of a gray area since different scores are calculated in different ways; different creditors use different scores; and no one knows exactly how they are calculated since those formulas are proprietary to the companies using them. Scores may range from around 300 to 900 with the average credit score in America being at about 692 as of 1/1/11. Here is an approximate range of how credit scores are judged:

Excellent credit = 720 and above
Good credit = 660 to 719
Fair credit = 620 to 659
Poor/bad credit = 619 and below

A Basic Breakdown

Although the exact formulas used to calculate credit scores is still a mystery, Fair Isaac has disclosed an approximate breakdown of what comprises a credit score and how much weight they carry:

Timeliness of payments = 35%
The amount of revolving debt in relation to the amount of your total revolving credit = 30%
Length of credit history = 15%
Type of credit used (installment, revolving, consumer finance) = 10%
Amount of credit recently obtained and recent searches for credit = 10%

Certain things can significantly impact your score, such as late payments. One or two is not bad, but the more payments you make that are late, the harder it hurts your score. Bankruptcies, foreclosures and judgments are also "blemishes" that can significantly impact your score. The more blemishes you have, the more lenders become concerned about your ability to manage your debt.

Bad Credit

Having bad credit, however, is not the end of the world. It still may be possible for lenders to give you a loan, provided your credit score is not too low. But be aware that you may pay a higher interest rate and more fees since you are more likely to default--fail to pay the loan back.

There are ways you can improve your credit score, such as paying down your debts, paying your bills on time, and disputing possible errors on your credit report. But on the flip side, there are ways you can also hurt your score, so remember: DON'T close an account to remove it from your report (it doesn't work); DON'T open too many credit accounts in a short period of time; and DON'T take too long to shop around for interest rates. Lenders must pull your credit report every time you apply for credit. If you are shopping around with different lenders for a lower interest rate, there is generally a grace period of about 30 days before your score is affected.

Check Your Credit Report Regularly

Since the FACT Act (Fair and Accurate Credit Transactions Act) was passed, U.S. residents are entitled to viewing their credit report from each of the three credit bureaus for free once every 12 months. It's a good idea to check your credit report regularly so you can correct any errors that appear on your report or if you've been the victim of identity theft. To do this, you can go to http://www.annualcreditreport.com/.

It's generally recommended to request a free copy of your credit report from one bureau every four months so that you can keep an eye on your credit more often than just once a year. Your scores are not included in those reports, but they can be purchased for a nominal fee. Also, when you request your credit report, you may be subject to several "pre-approved" credit card offers. You can reduce the amount of this kind of "junk mail" by calling 888-5-OPTOUT (888-567-8688).

Your credit score is a very important number that you should always be aware of. It's a measure of your financial responsibility--the higher your score, the more willing lenders and creditors will be to lend you money. One of the best things you can do before applying for a loan is to check your credit report and score.

For more information go to http://www.alpinemortgagerutherford.com/

What mistakes are commonly made when buying or refinancing a home?

If you're like most people, purchasing a home is the biggest investment you'll ever make. If you're considering buying a home, you're likely aware of the complexity of the endeavor. Because of the numerous factors to consider when purchasing a home, it's important to prepare as best you can. Some common home-buying principles and caveats are presented here for your consideration. By keeping them in mind, you'll help create a successful and more enjoyable experience. The information contained herein is presented as a primer. Since your home could cost you 25 to 40 percent of your gross income, it's important to conduct research, ask questions and study the process carefully.

Buying a home

1)Looking for a home before being pre-approved. As a potential buyer competing for a home, you'll have a better chance of getting your offer accepted by being as prepared as possible. Consider this hierarchy of buyer preparedness:
Offers are submitted and -

-The buyer is not pre-qualified or pre-approved
-Buyer is Pre-qualified
-Buyer is Pre-approved

The benefits available at each level can be easily understood when viewed from the seller's perspective. Imagine you're a seller in receipt of multiple purchase offers. A complete stranger (buyer) is asking you to take your property off the market for at least the next two to three weeks while they apply for a loan. As the seller, lets consider the type of buyer you'd prefer to deal with.


Neither pre-qualified nor pre-approved
This buyer provides no evidence that they can afford to purchase your property. You may wonder how serious they are since they're not at least pre-qualified.

Pre-qualified
This buyer has met with a mortgage broker (or lender) and discussed their situation. The buyer has informed the broker regarding their income, expenses, assets and liabilities. The broker may also have seen their credit report. The buyer provided you with a letter from the broker stating an opinion of what the buyer can afford.

Pre-approved
This buyer has completed a loan application, provided a broker or lender with written evidence of income, expenses, assets, liabilities and credit. All information has been verified by a lender. As a result, much of the paperwork for this buyer's loan has been completed. This buyer will probably be able to close quickly. They provide you with a letter (pre-approval certificate) from the lender. You're as certain as possible that this buyer can close.

As a potential buyer, you can see that being pre-approved will give you the best chance of getting your offer accepted. This is critical in a competitive situation.

2) Making verbal agreements. If you're asked to sign a document containing instructions contrary to your verbal agreements--don't! For example, the seller verbally agrees to include the washing machine in the sale, but the written purchase contract excludes it. The written contract will override the verbal contract. Do not expect oral agreements to be enforceable.

3) Choosing a lender because they have the lowest rate. While the rate is important, consider the total cost of your loan including the APR , loan fees, discount and origination points. When receiving a quote from a lender or broker, insist that the discount points (charged by the lender to reduce the interest rate) be distinguished from origination points (charged for services rendered in originating the loan). A below market or low interest rate quote may indicate some hidden loan requirements, like a prepayment penalty, requirement for escrow impounds, a short 15 day rate lock or requiring a bigger down payment. Make sure the rate quoted is for your specific loan request.

The cost of the mortgage, however, shouldn't be your only criterion. Select a reputable company which will deliver the loan as promised. Insist on a written pre-approval from the lender. If in the final hours of the transaction you find that the lender has suddenly increased their profit margin at your expense, you won't have time to start again with a different lender. Ask family and friends for referrals, and interview several prospective mortgage companies.

4) Not receiving a Good Faith Estimate (GFE). Within three business days after the broker or lender receives your loan application, you must receive a written statement of fees associated with the transaction. This is both the law and the best way to determine what you'll pay for your loan. Bring the GFE with you when you sign loan documents. You should not be expected to pay fees which are substantially different from those contained in your GFE.

5) Not getting a rate lock in writing. When a mortgage company tells you they have locked your rate, get a written statement detailing the interest rate, the length of the rate lock, and program details.

6) Using a dual agent--i.e., an agent who represents the buyer and the seller in the same transaction. Buyers and sellers have opposing interests. Sellers want to receive the highest price, buyers want to pay the lowest price. In the standard real estate transaction, the seller pays the real estate commission. When an agent represents both buyer and seller, the agent can tend to negotiate more vigorously on behalf of the seller. As a buyer, you're better off having an agent representing you exclusively. The only time you should consider a dual agent is when you get a price break. In that case, proceed cautiously and do your homework!

7) Buying a home without professional inspections. Unless you're buying a new home with warranties on most equipment, consider obtaining property, roof, structural and pest control and other relevant inspections. This way you'll know what you are buying. Inspection reports are great negotiating tools when asking the seller to make needed repairs. When a professional inspector recommends that certain repairs be done, the seller is more likely to agree to do them.

If the seller agrees to make repairs, have your inspector verify that they are done prior to close of escrow. Do not assume that everything was done as promised.

8) Not shopping for home insurance until you are ready to close. Start shopping for insurance as soon as you have an accepted offer. Many buyers wait until the last minute to get insurance and do not have time to shop around.

9) Signing documents without reading them. Whenever possible, review in advance the documents you'll be signing. (Even though some specifics of your transaction may not be known early in the transaction, the documents you'll sign are standard forms and are available for review.) It's unlikely that you'll have sufficient time to read all the documents during the closing appointment.

10) Not allowing for delays in the transaction. Ideally, all real estate transactions would close on time. In reality, transactions are often delayed a week or more. Suppose you asked your landlord to terminate your lease the day your purchase transaction was scheduled to close. A day or two before your scheduled closing date, you learn that your transaction is delayed a week. Very likely your landlord is inconvenienced and angry. The eviction process takes a little time, so the Sheriff won't immediately remove you, but this type of stress-producing episode can be avoided. How? Terminate your lease one week after your real estate transaction is scheduled to close. That way, if there is a delay in closing your transaction, you have some leeway.


Refinancing your home

1) Refinancing with your existing lender without shopping around. Your existing lender may not have the best rates and programs. There is a general misconception that it is easier to work with your current lender. In most cases, your current lender will require the same documentation as other companies. This is because most loans are sold on the secondary market and have to be approved independently. Even if you have made all your mortgage payments on time, your existing lender will still have to verify assets, liabilities, employment, etc. all over again.

2) Not doing a break-even analysis. Determine the total cost of the transaction, then calculate how much you will save every month. Divide the total cost by the monthly savings to find the number of months you will have to stay in the property to break even. E.g., if your transaction costs $2000 and you save $50/month, you break even in 2000/50 = 40 months. In this case you'd refinance if you planned to stay in your home for at least 40 months.

Note: This is a simplified break-even analysis. If you are considering switching from an adjustable to a fixed loan, or from a 30-year loan to a 15-year loan, the analysis becomes more complex.

3) Not getting a written Good Faith Estimate of closing costs. See item number four above.

4) Paying for an appraisal when you think your home value may be too low. Have the appraisal company provide a list of comparable sales (typically at no charge) to provide you with a range of possible values. Your mortgage company's appraiser or your Realtor may do this for you. Do not waste your money on a full appraisal if you are doubtful about the value of your home.

5) Using the county tax-assessor's value as the market value of your home. Mortgage companies do not use the county tax-assessor's value to determine whether they will make the loan. They use a market-value appraisal which may be very different from the assessed value.

6) Signing your loan documents without reviewing them. See item number nine above.

7) Not providing documents to your mortgage company in a timely manner. When your mortgage company asks you for additional documents, provide them immediately. They are doing what's necessary to get your loan approved and closed. Delays in providing documents can be costly.

8) Not getting a rate lock in writing. When a mortgage company tells you they have locked your rate, get a written statement which includes the interest rate, the length of the rate lock and details about the program.

9) Pulling cash out of your credit line before you refinance your first mortgage. Many lenders have cash-out seasoning requirements. This means that if you pull cash out of your credit line for anything other than home improvements, they will consider the refinance to be a cash-out transaction. This usually results in stricter requirements and in some cases can break the deal!

10) Getting a second mortgage before you refinance your first mortgage. Many mortgage companies look at the combined loan amounts (i.e., the first loan plus the second) when refinancing the first mortgage. If you plan on refinancing your first loan, check with your mortgage company to find out if getting a second will cause your refinance transaction to be turned down. There are many programs where you can apply for both a first and second at the same time.


At Alpine Mortgage, we specialize in home mortgages and find the right financing that best suits your needs. Contact us at 201-935-7777 to have one of our loan specialists assist you.

Understanding When to Refinance

Why Refinance?
There are lots of reasons you might want to refinance, but most people fit into one (or more) of the basic four catagories. Most people want to reduce their monthly payments; some want to consolidate outstanding debt, such as combining a first and second mortgage into a new first mortgage; some want to tap built-up equity in their homes, and some just want to get out of a mortgage product that they don't like, or that's costing too much -- going from an ARM to a fixed rate mortgage, for example.

Whatever group or groups you fit with, there are certain rules that you must follow to reach the goal desired. Straying from some of these basics can end up not only costing time, but could end up costing more money in the future.

2% Rule of Thumb?
The traditional refinance rule of thumb -- that you must get an interest rate at least 2% below the interest rate you currently have -- is often wrong. Why? Waiting for a two percent difference from your rate to show up in the marketplace can actually cost you money. For some people, as little as one-half of one percent can be enough, if all other factors fall into place. In addition, since ARMs are priced at below-market rates, it's almost always possible to get that 2% spread -- though you may or may not want to. The only way to determine whether refinancing is for you is to go about it the right way: by analyzing the time and the cost factors.

What Is Your Time Frame?
What is your time frame? Simply put, it's how long you plan on holding this mortgage, although it can be more complicated than that. You might have a product that demands refinancing -- like a balloon mortgage -- your time frame is only until the balloon period runs out. But, if you don't have to refinance, your time frame can be as long as you plan to stay in the home you're in. When determining your time factor, it's crucial to be honest with yourself, since the time factor will determine if and when you begin to save money. It's a fact that refinancing can cost a considerable amount of money, so you'll want to be as certain as possible of your time frame. For example, is it likely that your employer will relocate you to another city, or that you'll change jobs soon? Do you have a physical condition that could require you to move?

Evaluating all possibilities is vital, but only you know what your time frame will be.

More or Less Mortgage?
One other factor involved in refinancing your mortgage: how much money you'll need or want to borrow. Most lenders will let you borrow around 80% of your home's current appraised value. Some will allow more, if you're simply refinancing your existing loan. But, if you're looking to tap equity, known in the mortgage industry as a 'cash-out refi', you'll probably find that it's less than 80%. In many cases, cashing-out will mean that you'll have a larger mortgage balance than before, with possibly a higher monthly payment -- and you'll have to qualify for that new mortgage.

Another consideration with a cash-out refi: you might not be able to get that nice low rate you've seen, if your mortgage amount will be above the 'conforming' loan amount. Conforming loans are sold to large secondary market investors -- mostly to Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac -- and since they buy so many, the rates are often lower. However, loans above the conforming limit, known as 'jumbo' loans, often have interest rates as much as 1/2% higher than conforming, since they are bought and sold on a much smaller scale. This is also known as the 'jumbo premium'. In short, if you have to or want to take out a jumbo mortgage, be prepared to pay more for it.

Cash-out Refi or Home Equity Loan?
If freeing up cash in your home is what you'd like to do, there's a way to do so, even without refinancing: taking a home-equity loan. Home equity loans can be a viable alternative to a cash-out refi, although they are not without their own set of risks. Most Home Equity loans are of the adjustable-rate, revolving 'line of credit' type, and work much like a credit card does, and lenders will generally offer you as much as 75% of the equity in your home (the appraised value less the balance of your first mortgage). Most lines are pegged to the Prime rate plus a margin, but be careful -- most don't have per-adjustment interest rate caps, and some have lifetime caps of as much as 25%. There are fixed rate home equity loans available too, and they function much like any first or second mortgage does, but will cost you more than a line of credit.

Closing Costs
Now that we know why you want to refinance, how long you're planning to hold the mortgage, and how much money you want or need to borrow, we can look into possibly the most difficult part: closing costs. Closing costs are what it will cost you, out of pocket, to obtain that new mortgage. Keep in mind, of course, that the more it costs you to get that new loan, the longer it will take to recoup those costs, so there may be some finite limits on what you want to pay.

While some closing costs are standard -- that is, you'll find them all over the country -- there are some that may be specific to your local market, or to your state. Estimating your costs will take a little research, but it's important because they'll cost you anywhere between $1000 to $5000 dollars. Along with the time factor, they will determine your savings (or costs) when you refinance.

The major closing cost in obtaining any mortgage are 'points', also known as 'discount' and 'origination' points. Origination points are treated differently for tax purposes, but each point is equal to 1% of the mortgage amount you borrow -- $1000 each if you're borrowing $100,000. How many points you want to pay, or whether you want to pay any at all, depends upon how much cash you have available. Typically, paying more 'discount' points will lower the available interest rate, since they are a prepayment of interest; however, you may not know that points can often be traded off for a different interest rate -- such as 9% and 3 points, 9.125% and 2 points, 9.25% and 1 point, and 9.375% and no points. (This is just an example).

So, if you decide that paying points is not for you, expect to pay an incrementally higher interest rate. Origination points are a different matter, since they technically are a fee, and they have no effect whatsoever on the interest rate you can obtain. (Some states limit the number of discount points a lender can charge in the making of a mortgage loan).

Of course, points (discount or otherwise) are only one of the costs involved with refinancing. As you well remember from getting your original mortgage, there are plenty of others waiting to tap your resources -- costs for appraising your property, researching your title to the property, title insurance, credit checks, attorney review fees, inspections for insects, and others. These can easily add up to a few thousand dollars, but there may be ways you can reduce these costs. For example, if the lender who originated your mortgage still holds it, you might be able to simply update your title insurance policy, instead of taking out a new one. Or, if your original mortgage required Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) because you put less than 20% down on the property, and your new mortgage will be 80% or less than the appraised value, you can probably drop your PMI coverage, saving you as much as the equivalent of 1/4 of one percent on your new interest rate. Shopping around and comparing can also help you save on these fees.

One other possible cost, depending upon where you live: taxes. Some states have surcharges known as 'mortgage taxes', 'realty transfer taxes', 'mortgage recording fees' and others. It is very important to find out if your area is one that does charge these fees, since they can add as much as 2% of the mortgage amount to your closing costs, and significantly lengthen the cost recovery time.

What Kind of Mortgage?
Getting the wrong kind of mortgage for your situation, even with a low interest rate, can, and often will, end up costing you money in the long run. Conversely, getting the right kind of mortgage, without a low enough interest rate, can make it take a very long time to recoup your closing costs.

That's because some mortgages are better suited for a shorter time frame, some for mid-length times, and others for the long haul. The time frame you have available will help determine what kinds of products are best suited to your needs. Refinancing to a 30 year fixed rate mortgage may be the wrong selection for you if you don't plan on holding the mortgage long enough to make it pay.

The biggest savings, as you'd expect, come from paying less interest. If you are comfortable with the monthly payment you are now making, it may very well be possible for you to refinance into a mortgage with a shorter term -- 15 or 20 years, for example -- for the very same monthly payment you have now. A 15 year mortgage payment is only about 25% higher than that of a 30 year -- not double, as you might expect. While this won't put money back in your pocket every month, it will let you build equity in your home twice as fast, which can pay you back in a lump sum if and when you sell the home, or let you borrow larger sums against it later. Overall, where a 30 year, $100,000 mortgage (at 10%) will cost you about $216,000 in interest costs over the life of the loan, a 15 year term will only cost you about $94,000 -- a $122,000 savings. So, the term of the loan you want can also help determine your overall savings.

As we mentioned, your time frame will determine the best types of mortgage for you. For example, if your time frame is reasonably short, say one to four years, you'll want to consider a short term mortgage, like a one-year adjustable rate mortgage. With a very low first year's interest rate, and a per-adjustment cap of 2%, you can virtually guarantee that low interest rate, in this example, would be at least 2% below an available 30 year fixed rate, and approximately 3% to 5% below your current interest rate. Don't laugh -- a 4% interest rate spread would recoup $3000 in closing costs in less than one year, plus you'd still have a second year at below market rates. It's certainly worth considering an ARM if your time frame is very short.

As you'd expect, your mortgage choices expand as your time frame does. With a time frame of five to seven years, you might consider a balloon mortgage or the newer "Two-Step" mortgage. With either, your payments are based on as long as thirty years, but your mortgage may end at a much shorter time. But, since your mortgage can end at a shorter time, you get an added benefit: an interest rate that is roughly 1/2% lower than the prevailing 30 year fixed rate mortgage.

If your time frame runs six years or longer, you can start to consider other mortgages, including the 30 year fixed rate; as an alternative, you could also consider taking an ARM, and be prepared to refinance again in another three or four years. This isn't as crazy as it may sound, as we'll show on the chart below by making a worst case assumption. (We assume the same points and closing costs on each mortgage).

Four Year cost analysis: 1 Year ARM vs 30 Year Fixed

$100,000 Original Mortgage Amount

1 Year ARM with 2% Per-Adjustment Cap and 6% Life Caps vs.
30-Year Fixed Rate Mortgage at 9.50%

1 Yr. ARM Mo. Payment Yr. Total
Year 1 6.5% $632.07 $7,584.84
Year 2 8.5% $761.19 $9,134.28
Year 3 10.5% $903.69 $10,837.44
Year 4 12.5% $1054.11 $12,649,33
Grand Totals: $40,205.89
30 Yr. Fixed Mo. Payment Yr. Total
Year 1 9.5% $840.85 $10,090.25
Year 2 9.5% $840.85 $10,090.25
Year 3 9.5% $840.85 $10,090.25
Year 4 9.5% $840.85 $10,090.25
Grand Total: $40,361.00


As you can see, even at a worst case, your 30 year fixed rate would still have cost you slightly more over the four year period. In addition, it's very possible that your ARM wouldn't have gone up the full 2% every year. In that event, if your rate didn't go up the full 2%, year, you would have saved money -- perhaps even enough to pay for your next refinance.

How long will it take for your refinance to save you money? That all depends upon the difference between your existing monthly payment and the monthly payment on your new mortgage.

Breaking Even
Most people want to recoup their closing costs within a "reasonable" amount of time -- typically, three or four years. Of course, lowering your monthly payment (if that's why you refinanced) will put a few dollars back in your pocket every month. Your break-even point (the point where the savings each month has offset the cost of your refi) should be short enough that you enjoy at least a year or two of savings after the break-even point expired.

To start with, you'll need to know what the available interest rates are on the type of mortgage that fits your needs; the difference between your current and projected monthly payments; and your closing costs.

At Alpine Mortgage, we specialize in assisting customers find the right financing that best suits their needs. Apply online today www.alpinemortgagerutherford.com or contact us at 201-935-7777 to have one of our loan specialists assist you with your financing needs.